Most visitors who arrive in the province of Chiriqui want to take to the hills. The immense bulk of the dormant Volcano Baru beckons to the north of the cit of David, its 11,490 foot peak usually gloriously visible early morning; often cloud- capped later.
The volcano has two resort areas, Boquete on the east slope and Volcan, Cerro Punta and Guadalupe on the west. From David, a road takes you straight up with a steady rate-of-climb to the town of Boquete which nestles in a verdant valley against the Volcano's flank, and you enter another world, settled early last century by Europeans and Americans to grow coffee and flowers. Some of them were bound for California 's gold rush but stayed to exploit a more reliable harvest.
Mountain slopes around the valley today reflect the dark green lustre of the coffee plantations which produce a connoisseur's bean exported to Europe and the U.S.A. Your hotel can arrange tours of coffee installations, called beneficios in Spanish. Coffee is harvested between September and April, mainly by Guaymi Indian families.
Your hotel, too, can arrange to send you up to the peak of Volcan Baru in a four-wheel drive to see the sun rise on two oceans --- an experience somewhere between awesome and religious.
Boquete is headquarters for the river rafting companies which will send you on the white water of the Chiriqui Viejo and Estí rivers for class 2, 3, 4, and 5 adventures. Horseback is another way to go. Local guide Eduardo Cano (720-1750) will take you on a 2-6 hour ride in spectacular country. Or hiking... public trails in the Palo Alto cloud forest are easy to follow and sneakers are fine. To go higher, waterproof hiking boots and a guide are recommended.
Big event of Boquete's year is the Flower and Coffee Fair every January. You can walk around the fairground on the banks of the Caldera River to see the flowers at any time. They are best in December and January. Other gardens to enjoy are El Explorador, open weekends and holidays and by special request (entrance fee $1), and the renowned formal gardens of the Gonzalez family which are open to the public free of charge.
Other events of note are the Orchid Fair in April and the Ecological fair in June. If bathing in hot springs or cold rivers appeals, the area of Caldera is your goal.
Very recently a new wave of immigrants has begun to settle in the highlands, especially Boquete. These are folk from North America and Europe seeking a retirement home, a second home or an investment such as in the field of tourism. Boquete is expanding with numerous gated communities under construction and infrastructure such as restaurants and small hotels is enlivening the town.
